Hippie Blue is finished and ready for delivery this coming Saturday. It is gorgeous, if I do say so myself and I am very pleased with it.
Needles: 4mm circular. I was supposed to use a slightly smaller size for the neck ribbing. When the sweater was complete, that ribbing seemed quite loosey goosey. I think I used the 4mm on it too. A bit of black elastic thread and all was well.
Yarn: Cabin Fever Cotton Tweed. Walnut brown for the body, Denim Blue for the trim. An excellent choice for a new Mom who will most likely often have 'spit up' on the sweater and who demanded most emphatically that the sweater not be 'itchy'. Cotton Tweed can be thrown in with the regular wash and also into the dryer and still look good for years to come.
MODS:
There are many. Starting at the top on this top down raglan, I'll explain them all.
Cast On and Neck Line: The cast on number came from Button Up Your Top Down. I like the way top downs
from this book begin. Most top down raglans begin with fewer than
required stitches. Then, as one knits back and forth raising the back
neck and increasing at the raglan lines,stitches are added one at a time
to the centre front. This works, but I find those stitches added at
centre front every right-side row are often sloppy.
The technique used in BUYTDown, approaches the neck
shaping from the other way around. All required stitches are cast on.
Then, while working back and forth raising the back neck and increasing
at each raglan line, a decrease is worked at centre front. The edge-line decreases -at least when they come off my needles - are much neater
than my edge-line increases sometimes are.
Once done, the back neck is higher than the front, allowing space for
your chin (or chins as the case may be) and the centre front line is neat
and tidy.
Armhole Depth and Underarms: Moving down the sweater, I took my next set of numbers from
the Need A Circular Yoke ? book. This is a more recent publication and
because of that (at least I think because of that) the armholes are
shorter, providing a more fitted fit. A look I feel is more current and suitable for a young woman.
Before reaching the underarm and separating
body from sleeves, I added in a couple of short rows across the back. Maybe an old lady
thing , thinking of a dowager's hump, but I put them in nonetheless.
At the underarm, on both body and sleeve, I added stitches.
These added stitches keep the underarm from binding - especially when
the armholes are not overly deep. The number of stitches to add was
taken from the NaCYoke? book and double checked against Elizabeth
Zimmermann's rule of 8% of body stitches.
Bust Shaping: I have knit a few sweaters now with bust darts. The
Need a Plus Size Cardigan? book was where I first learned of the advantage of bust darts. For my niece's sweater, through the use of bust darts, I wanted the front of the sweater two inches wider than the back. After knitting the neck ribbing, I switched to stockinet, increasing along the raglan lines until I was two inches shy of desired circumference. I separated the sleeves from the body as mentioned above. Then, knowing that my gauge was 5point5 sts per inch, I decided to put 6 extra stitches at each front side. I placed a marker and made the increases at those markers on both the left and right sides. Doing this on the right sides only meant it took 12 rows to achieve these 6 increases.
Waist Shaping: Knitting south towards the waist, I added some shaping. My
niece is a new Mom and from the front it might be argued that no shaping
is required. But at one of Deb Gemmell's recent seminars I learned
that while our front waists might disappear through child birth or age,
the back waist often remains. For the knitter, this means that while shaping
might not be needed at the front, shaping should still be done at the
back.
Some designers have knitters shape at the side seamlines.
NACYoke? has the waist shaping done on either side of the 8% stitches that
were added under the arms. While these separated decrease lines are
improved styling, I think, I nonetheless took it one step further. One
quarter of the way into the back from each side, I placed a marker and
did all decreases at the markers. This created a vertical dart that while on this dark brown sweater is too dark to be seen on camera, trust me in knowing that those lines are very slimming.
Hip Increases: Once at the waist, the decreases became increases. Most
were done along the same vertical dart lines as the above-waist
decreases. But, because I wanted to give my niece some extra hip room in
the sweater, there had to be lots of increases - more than could be
accommodated on those two vertical lines alone.
So, while on most right side rows, there were only two increases - at those two vertical lines - on other increase rows,
there were 4 increases and on still others, 6 increases. Two at
the back dart lines, two more at the back underarm markers and still two
more at the front underarm markers. Six increases in total on
occasional rows. This allowed the hip area to grow quickly enough to be
at the required measurement before time to do the ribbing.
Ribbing: Speaking of ribbing, I realized my work to provide room
for the hips would be for naught if I knit regular 2x2 ribbing. Ribbing
pulls in. That would definitely work against the roomy hip style I had
worked for my niece.
Instead I worked garter ribbing. K2, P2 on the front. Purl across the
row on the wrong side. It was a good match for the button bands. Taken
from the BUYTDown book, the button bands are knit at the same time as the
sweater. Although they look like regular ribbing, they are in fact a
type of garter ribbing.
Sleeves: Sleeves were quite normally knit. I did them on a circular needle using the 'loop' method when the circumference became too small for the cable. They too were finished off with the garter ribbing, which when done in the round is K2, P2 on Round 1, then Knit all stitches on Round 2. Easy.
My Opinion: The sweater fits beautifully. I do not mean that it fits me, but in trying it on, I can see that the extra tailoring features I incorporated give it a custom look. It is not an 'off the rack' sweater for sure. I gave the tailoring of this sweater much thought and if it fits my niece it will be a great coup for knitters everywhere.
My one last step before giving the sweater to my niece is to approximate the number of stitches in the garment. I know the number of stitches per inch, I know the number of rows per inch and I know the sweater dimensions. With those numbers, I should be able to approximate the total number of stitches in the sweater. (Grade three math - if there are two apples in each basket, how many apples are there in all ten baskets?)
Then, as
yarnharlot once advised knitters to do, in the accompanying card, I will write - "All
xxx number of stitches in this sweater were knit with loving thoughts of you".